Tag Archives: Galapagos

Galapagos Cruise Ships

Galapagos cruise ships are unlike the massive ships you see going through the Panama Canal, carrying thousands of passengers. They are actually just large yachts. They carry an average of 16 to 30 passengers, although a few larger ones carry up to 100 passengers. Most tourists travel around the Galapagos Islands on one of these boats.

To Cruise or not to Cruise

Contrary to popular belief, touring the Galapagos on a cruise with an expensive tour company is not the only way to go. The following paragraphs will detail touring the Galapagos with or without a cruise.

The Cruise

Cruise tours offer the advantage of having everything organized for you. All you have to do is get there. Touring Galapagos without a cruise means you have to arrange accommodations and tours independently. Some people find this daunting and prefer to let someone else handle all the details.

Although independent travel is more work, you can spend more time on shore. You can learn about the people and culture, go to nightclubs, experience the local restaurants, stroll the streets to check things out or go for a drink. You also get to see more wildlife, although at sea you can see dolphins and other animals you will not see from shore. Galapagos yacht tours typically spend a couple of hours in the morning and another two hours in the afternoon on shore. The majority of time is spent on the ship.

Although a cruise ship is the most comfortable and easiest way to go, Many adventurous people tour the island independently.

Price

Galapagos cruise ships are very expensive. I spent a month in the islands for the price of a one-week cruise. I stayed at Airbnb accommodations. Most of them were nice, with a couple of exceptions. However, hotels are expensive, and we spent most of our time outdoors, not in our accommodations.

Getting There

Flights to the Galapagos Islands leave from Quito and Guayaquil, Ecuador. Flying from Quito is a better option. Many flights from Quito stop in Guayaquil, but you can also get a direct flight from Quito. Most international flights arrive at Quito airport, so you will probably be there anyway.

You will probably need to book one night’s accommodation before heading to the island the following morning. Book accommodations at a lodge outside the city. Although this might be a bit more money, it is a lot nicer, there is less danger of crime, and it also presents some local birding opportunities. Some lodges will pick you up at the airport and return you the next day for free or for a small fee.

If you go on a cruise, they will want you to buy your air ticket from them. If you do not, there will be a penalty fee. They want about $500 for the return flight. I purchased my flight myself on the internet for about half of what the cruise lines charge. This is a ripoff and another reason for not taking a cruise.

Like Another Country

Although the Galapagos Islands belong to Ecuador, going there from the mainland is like going to another country. Before going, you’ll need a return air ticket and book accommodations; although no one checked my accommodations booking when I went there, be prepared for that eventuality.

Allow extra time at the airport. You will need to get a Transit Control Card. This is sort of like a visa. It costs $20 and includes an X-ray or inspection of your luggage. This is in addition to the standard airport security you must go through at all airports. They are not checking for dangerous items; that comes later at the boarding security. They are checking for plants or insects or anything that might cause harm to the environment in the Galapagos Islands.

Upon Arrival

Upon Arrival in Galapagos, your luggage will be x-rayed and inspected again. You must pay a $100 entrance fee. This money goes towards maintaining the National Park. It must be paid in cash. Credit Cards are not accepted.

Bus, Ferry, Taxi

After getting through the airport, you will find yourself on Baltra Island. There is little on the island. Some yachts are in the harbour on Baltra, but most people will be heading for the city of Puerto Ayora on San Cristobal Island. You will need to take a bus. Tickets cost $5 and are available at a booth outside the airport near the bus park.

The bus will take you to the Itabaca Channel that separates Baltra from San Cristobal. (A channel is a natural water barrier between two pieces of land, such as the English Channel. A canal is a human-made waterway like the Panama Canal. ) The Itabaca Channel is a natural waterway, but the locals call it a canal.

Get on the small, flat ferry to cross the channel. Your luggage will be moved from the bus to the ferry’s roof. A fee of one dollar per person will be collected on board for the five-minute ride across the narrow channel.

To Puerto Ayora – Buss or Taxi

You have a decision to make once you get to the island of Santa Cruz. You will need to go to Puerto Ayora, which is on the opposite side of the island. Choose to go by bus or taxi. The bus costs $5 and takes you to the waterfront near the docks. The taxis are white pickup trucks and cost $25. So which one to take? If you want to save money, take the bus. Depending on where in Puerto Ayora you are going and how much luggage you have, you may have to take a taxi from the bus stop to your accommodations. The advantages of a taxi are that it is private and more comfortable and will take you directly to your accommodations anywhere in the city. The taxi is not a good option if it is raining because your luggage will be in the back of the pickup.

Bring Cash

Ecuador does not have its own currency and uses the U.S. Dollar. The Galapagos Islands is a cash-based society. Hotels and tour companies will accept credit cards, but stores, taxis, and restaurants do not. I paid for my accommodation beforehand on the Internet. Ecuador is not cheap like Mexico or Peru, and things in Galapagos are more expensive than the mainland. I don’t like carrying a lot of cash, but for the Galapagos, I took $1000 per person in cash to pay for meals, taxis, souvenirs, etc. Galapagos has bank machines, but I don’t know the exchange rate. You will probably pay more than buying US dollars at home (if you are not American), plus a fee to use the machine at both ends of the transaction, whether you are American or not.

This is what you need (per person) on the first day:

• $20 for your Transit Control Card
• $100 to enter Galapagos
• $5 for the first bus
• $1 for the ferry
• $5 for the second bus or $25 for a taxi to Puerto Ayora
• money for meals and incidentals

All of the above must be paid in cash. They do not accept other forms of payment. It is best to have the correct change—especially $1 for the ferry.

One-dollar coins are in common use in Ecuador, although I seldom see them in the USA.

Travel Between Islands

You will no doubt want to travel to other islands. How will you do this if you are not on a cruise? Ferries travel between the main islands twice daily (usually about 7 a.m. and 3 p.m.). There are many tour agents along the main waterfront street where you can purchase tickets. The price is only $35.

This is convenient and cheap, but it is not a pleasant ride. Imagine the worst roller coaster you have been on, and then take out the pauses between the ups and downs.

The ferries are horrible, but here are a couple of tips to improve your ride.

1. Take two motion-sickness pills one hour before the ferry departs, even if you do not usually get seasick.
2. Go early. If you have a ticket, you will get on, but the first in line get their choice of seats. Avoid the seats at the front of the boat. Sit near the rear as much as possible but not the last row, which has no roof. The front of the boat bounces a lot more than the back.

By Air

There is also the option to fly between islands. We took a ferry from Santa Cruz to Isabella, then a flight from Isabella to San Cristobal, and then a ferry from Santa Cruz to San Cristobal.

The flights are expensive, and there is a strict weight limit. To get from Isabella to San Cristobal, we could not bear the thought of a ferry to Santa Cruz and another to San Cristobal.

The Small Islands

After taking the ferry to one of the main islands, you can arrange day trips to nearby small islands. These trips utilize a lovely boat with a pleasant ride. Not at all like the ferries, which are small and go fast, which causes a lot of bouncing around. These tours usually include breakfast and lunch, a guide, a chance to tour remote islands and an opportunity to go snorkeling. Usually, masks, snorkels, and flippers are provided—more information about tours is in my next post. You can explore most of the Galapagos Islands using ferries and tour boats without paying for an expensive cruise.

More about these tours in my next post

Things to See and Do in Galapagos

My next post will list things to see and do in Galapagos, and I will also provide a link to “Birding in Galapagos” Subscribe to my newsletter to ensure you don’t miss these posts.

Safety

Currently there is a State of Emergency in Ecuador due to conflict between the government and drug gangs. However, this does not seem to be affecting the Galapagos Islands and I have not seen any reports of it being unsafe to go there. Many tourists are still going. I would avoid going into the city of Quito or especially Quayaguil. There is currently a curfew so you cannot go out in the evening. An exception is made if you are travelling to or from the airport. As stated above, if you need to stay overnight on the mainland, go to a lodge outside the city. There are some nice lodges within 40 minutes drive of the airport and many of them will include transportation for you. You are responsible to check current conditions before going to Ecuador. My Thatched Hut is for information purposes only and is not qualified to provide advice on medical, legal or safety matters. Please read our disclaimer and check your government travel advisories. https://mythatchedhut.com/Disclaimer-2/