Updated June 2022
Things I wanted to see and do in southern Yukon:
- Visit Kluane National Park, the home of Canada’s highest mountains.
- Find and photograph Dall Sheep, a white sheep that normally live high up in the mountains.
- See and photograph the Aurora Borealis (Northern Lights).
- Travel by Dog Sled.
- See and photograph the Trumpeter Swan migration.
After doing all that, I moved some 500 km north to the town of Dawson City. I had two goals here:
- Tour Dawson City.
- See the breakup of the ice on the Yukon River.
Touring Dawson City is easy. It is not going anyplace. However, witnessing the ice breakup on the Yukon River can be tricky. If you get here too soon, you might be waiting for a week or more in frigid weather. On the other hand, if the weather is warm, the ice will break earlier, and you might miss it. It typically breaks between late April and mid-May.
Yukon River Breakup
Upon arrival in Dawson, the first thing I did was check the status of the river. It was full of water – not ice! So I assumed that I had missed the breakup. But the water was still frozen further up the river. The next day it broke, and tons of ice came rushing down the river past Dawson City. The ice filled the river from shore to shore. Pieces of ice varied in size from that of a shoe to that of a house.
Due to currents, some ice moves faster than other pieces. Sometimes large pieces of ice collide, and sometimes, one goes under the other and pushes upward, similar to an earthquake. When this happens, a large block of ice pops upward and rolls over. Although the ice and water are cold, the action resembles things jumping around in a tub of boiling water. At the same time, the whole mass is rushing down the river. We were riveted to this amazing sight and could not take our eyes off it. We stood and watched it for a couple of hours without losing interest.
This is an incredible sight that few people get to witness. Very few tourists are here at this time of year. Timing is critical. One day later, I would have missed it.
Caribou on Ice
I was pleased and excited to see this incredible event. But then I saw something even more impressive. Amid all the tons of ice moving down river, a large chunk came floating past with three caribou on it. They must have been crossing the river when the ice broke and got swept away. So, they just stood there looking bewildered. They were probably wondering how they got into this situation. Caribou are good swimmers, and the cold water will not bother them for a short time. But there was so much ice that swimming was not possible. If they went into the water, they would probably get beaten to death or pushed under by the ice. I hope they survived.
The Aftermath
The next day, the river was mostly free of ice. But the shoreline was littered with giant blocks of ice that got pushed onto the land and left behind. It was indeed a natural wonder that you should add to your bucket list. It is right up there with seeing the Aurora Borealis. So many people asked why I would come north at this time of year. I wouldn’t say I like the cold, but the sights to behold are genuinely spectacular.
My Arctic Adventure
There are several posts on this website about my winter and summer trips to the Arctic. Click on the travel menu or use the search feature.